Surfers Have Life All Figured Out

Last week I sat on the shores of the Pacific Ocean at Malibu and Venice beaches watching mostly amateur surfers paddle out and wait for their next set. It was a beautiful day, not too hot, still cold enough in the water that all but one had a wetsuit on.

I wondered who these people were that they could be out at 11am on a Thursday spending extended periods of time floating in the ocean, enjoying the serenity and level-headedness that comes with a outdoor activity such as surfing. I imagined most of them are low-income earners, perhaps working in the service industry, maybe as a bartender or waiter, something they can do at night to free up their days to surf. Maybe a few of them teach others how to surf, and maybe a handful are freelance-types, graphic designers and whatnot who make enough money doing something creative to get by. I imagine one or two were retired technology millionaires, but they would be the outliers.

As I sat there watching them, I realized that no matter what they were doing in their lives that afforded them the opportunity to be there, they were THERE, doing what they love, what brings them joy, keeps their spirit and energy high, and, let’s face it, is fun as hell. Who wouldn’t want to spend the day communing with nature, watching the sun move through the sky, the smell of the saltwater in your nose and the cool comfort of the ocean on…