Surfers Have Life All Figured Out

Last week I sat on the shores of the Pacific Ocean at Malibu and Venice beaches watching mostly amateur surfers paddle out and wait for their next set. It was a beautiful day, not too hot, still cold enough in the water that all but one had a wetsuit on.

I wondered who these people were that they could be out at 11am on a Thursday spending extended periods of time floating in the ocean, enjoying the…